When Brazilian-born chef Marcello started his career at 14, he may not have anticipated working on the starkly beautiful island of Skye – but then he probably didn’t expect to be crafting some of the most exquisitely refined Scottish-influenced food on the planet, either.
After college, Marcello caught the attention of Albert Roux, who took him under his wing at Home Roux – the first UK restaurant to feature sous vide techniques. After six years under Roux – at Le Gavroche, Rouxl Britannia and La Boucherie Lamartine – Tully moved into the catering industry.
After several years in catering, the reigning monarch of Scottish home cookery, Lady Claire Macdonald, chose him to head the kitchen at Kinloch Lodge. The restaurant has since won three AA rosettes and a Michelin star.
Dan Saltzstein of the New York Times calls Tully’s cooking ‘restrained’ and ‘luscious’, while the Sunday Times’ Allan Brown remarked that ‘every mouthful was heaven’.
When Living Scotsman asked Marcello what his most useful kitchen utensils are, Marcello cheekily replied, ‘My palate and my pots.’ Judging by the mouth-watering food that emerges from Kinloch Lodge’s kitchen, both are in peak condition.
Making extensive use of the venison, game birds (like wild pigeon) and the ultra-fresh fish so plentiful on Skye, Marcello’s food is unquestionably Scottish. Yet it is influenced by modern European preparations that Marcello perfected during his time with Albert Roux, and accented by the occasional off-shore ingredient (often citrus).
Douglas Blyde of Harpers points out, “…savoury use of fruit depicts his Brazilian heritage while generous, concentrated sauces reveal the influence of French training.”